One of his stories

In the same way that America holds democracy, Hungary holds history.  Awareness of where one has been illuminates the possible places one can go.  This central truth is expressed in Hungary’s cultural identity.  I want to truly integrate myself into the places I find myself, so I will expose myself to real cultural experiences.  The first opportunity to take on this challenge came when we enjoyed a night at the opera.  The Hungarian State Opera House was built to honor Hungary’s millennial anniversary as a nation and so justly reflects certain decadence.  I think this is one of the finest buildings in Budapest, and it’s undoubtedly one of the most fun to tour because of the many recognizable statues and art pieces found decorating the space.  The main entry is guarded by statues of Franz Liszt, Hungary’s most famous composer, and Ferenc Erkel, the composer of Hungary’s national anthem and the opera we came to see: Bánk bán.  The auditorium is not the biggest, but it is said to possess the third best acoustics in Europe (after La Scala in Milan and the Palais Garnier in Paris – I will have to pay these places a visit and decide for myself…).  I can attest to the quality of sound conduction here because our seats were in the balcony, but we could hear perfectly.  We chose this particular show because it is unofficially the national opera of Hungary.  The rationale behind this designation escapes me, for the story itself is awfully depressing and rife with angst.  In short, the viceroy of a 13^th century Hungarian king tries to defend his wife’s honor while combating poverty, but ends up committing regicide and facing the unrelated homicide/suicide of his son and wife.  Still, the music is emotional and the libretto quite moving, even if I couldn’t really understand a word.  The native audience was certainly appreciative of the performance; they called for several repeat curtain calls.  I was quite fascinated with the way the crowd applauded – the collective clapping quickly evolved into a synchronized slow clap which seemed out of place compared with the class of patrons and the elegant environment.  This behavior aside, I felt honored to sit in this historic building among true Hungarians to witness a piece of their identity enacted.

My cultural education continued the following day when, after class, I went to Heroes’ Square with a few of my fellows.  This public space was created around the same time as the Opera House and it has a lot of historical significance.  There are statues here in honor of the seven tribes that came together to form the Hungarian state and more to lionize the individuals most formative in the nation’s history.  There is also a general memorial here dedicated “To the memory of the heroes who gave their lives for the freedom of our people and our national independence”.  History is a big deal.  Heroes’ Square is not only a testament to history – it is also a stage for meaningful events.  It was here that most of the statues were toppled by Soviet leaders and replaced by Marxist iconography early in the 20^th century.  It was here that one of the leaders of the 1956 rebellion sought sanctuary.  The square leads into a beautiful city park, Városliget, which plays host to a number of museums, restaurants, and sights including a thermal bath, a zoo, an amusement park, a flea market, a botanical garden, and even a circus.  All of the content was far too overwhelming for our afternoon visit, but we took in these vistas and resolved to return in time.  The park is quite large and far enough away from the hustle of the business sector, that it was restfully quiet and restorative to sit beneath the willow trees at length.  Lounging in the shade as we were, I started to feel in tune with the history unfolding around me.